Clyde jumpsuits | #ESMadeByMe

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Elizabeth Suzann was my introduction to ethical fashion. On the ES blog Liz Pape, the owner, would talk openly about pricing and consumption, business practices, environmental impact, and many other important topics. In addition to its unique business practices, ES had so many beautiful and functional designs.

Unfortunately, after a couple months into the pandemic, it was announced that ES would be closing. 2022 UPDATE: New Elizabeth Suzann Studio website.

This incredibly sad announcement also came with the promise of eventually making the patterns available (and free) to the public. Bittersweet news for the sewing community.

A few lovely folx – @minimalistmachinist, @thestoryclubpdx, and @mombasics began working together to make Elizabeth Suzann patterns accessible almost immediately.

Favorites like Clyde, Georgia, Harper, and Florence are available through this newsletter. The Dropbox link (the only thing you’ll be sent through the newsletter) will be updated with patterns until Liz Pape is able and ready to release them herself.

Currently, it’s just the patterns, no instructions, but many makers have already posted mini sewalongs on Instagram. Tutorials can be found via #ESMadeByMe. I’ve also shared how I constructed this in an IG highlight, but you can also view it at the end of this post.

Now for the most important part, donations. As these patterns are open source/free, we’ve been encouraged to donation to Black-led social justice organizations. Since I’ve downloaded the Clyde jumpsuit and work pants, as well as the Harper tunic, I’ve donated $15 to each of the organizations listed in the newsletter, and will continue to donate that amount per pattern download.

UPDATE: due to the overwhelming response to the newsletter, it has since been shut down. It became too large of a project for our community members to manage. Liz Pape will be making them available sometime in the future, so hang tight. I will not email out the patterns I’ve downloaded, so please don’t ask.

2022 UPDATE: Patterns can be found here.

PATTERN: Clyde jumpsuit by Elizabeth Suzann

FABRIC: 8 oz thrifted denim I had in my stash (blue denim), 10 oz natural bull demin from Stonemountain Fabrics (off-white)

SIZE: medium short (blue denim), small short (natural denim)

MODS: none

ACCESSORIES: me made shoes and necklace, Block Shop Textiles mask

I really love these jumpsuits. There aren’t any closures; the neckline should be wide enough to fit over your hips. The design is part of the ES signature collection and can be worn any season. The armholes can accommodate a sweater in cooler weather, or a t-shirt / on its own in warmer weather.

The iconic pockets are deep and sit slightly away from your body. They pretty much remove the need to carry a purse.

If you’re unsure about sizing, there are a lot of measurement available on the ES website. If after checking the size charts you’re still unsure, make a muslin.

UPDATE: recently learned all made-to-order ES products were washed after being sewn. The ES team did a lot of research into shrinkage rates for their fabrics, so I would not suggest you do the same. Prewash your fabric in the same way you will wash the finished garment, measure using the stitch lines on the pattern pieces to gauge if certain areas will fit you well, and make a muslin!

UPDATE: after wearing the small several days in a row, I think I will add 1/2″ – 1″ to the torso length. I still need to compare the finished “rise” on the medium to determine what additional length is needed to be able to bend comfortably in the small.

I will probably make two more jumpsuits. I’m imaging one in black linen and another in a brown linen. But before I make those, I’m off to make a Harper tunic.

This slideshow shares my method for sewing up the Clyde jumpsuit.

Quilted Slippers | Sew DIY

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If you regularly have cold feet and you’re looking for a scrap busting project, make these. For a quilting project, they sewed up pretty quickly and would make great gifts.

PATTERN: Quilted Slippers by Sew DIY, view A Booties

FABRIC: boro stripe in flax (main), speckled linen cotton blend (lining), Big Sur Canvas (sole), leftover batting

SIZE: B – I wear US women’s size 6 shoe but used the finished measurements chart to select size

MODS: made the opening about an 1″ wider. I did this for two reasons; it was a little challenging to get my foot in and I couldn’t attach the lining and exterior together because it wouldn’t fit around the arm of my machine.

Listened to ‘So you want to talk about race’ by Ijeoma Oluo while making these.

Slabtown Backpack + Fremont Tote | Klum House

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This post had to start off with my color inspiration for my Slabtown, which was another Klum House bag. I finished this Fremont Tote in early May and it’s the perfect day bag.

It has two exterior pockets that are perfect for my phone and a mask, plus a d-ring to clip my keys to. It has a small interior pocket for my wallet and sanitizing wipes, and a spacious main compartment for other essentials. Enough room for a book, sketchbook, planner, snacks, sunglasses, etc. – it’s really the perfect size.

I purchased the Fremont Full Maker Kit, which included all of the hardware (brass), pre-cut and marked waxed canvas and lining (natural), and pre-cut and punched leather (tan).

This greenish gray waxed canvas has been in my stash for years, I honestly don’t remember what I bought it for, but it felt like the perfect accent fabric. Once Klum House reached out to see if I’d be up for making the Slabtown (duh), I knew I would have to make a matching backpack. The pair will be a great travel set in the future (I hope… please wear a mask).

I also decided to add a monogram leather tab to play with my Leather Stamps Kit.

KH Full Maker Kits are so good. They include EVERYTHING and you can also purchase the necessary tools. I’m not sure if the full maker kit comes with the pattern, but I received it since the lovely KH folx knew I needed to cut my accent. The instruction booklet also comes with labels so you can keep track of everything.

Decided the tag would look better on the inside of the bag.

It’s really easy to agonize over the color combinations available. Klum House even released a few new colors (hi, field tan) with the Slabtown release. But I stuck to my matching set plan and was gifted the Slabtown Full Maker Kit, the felt strap expansion pack, and class in mid-May.

I gained access to the class before my kit arrived and watched the whole thing that same evening. It’s comprehensive, digestible, and Ellie is delightful. It makes the whole experience really approachable and fun.

I’m really happy I bought the Bakelite Mallet from Klum House and this Mini Anvil from Blackbird fabrics. They’re great for setting rivets, snaps, and jeans buttons.

Side panels constructed and ready for hardware. What the backside of tubular rivets look like.

Each step in this project is so rewarding. Here’s my fully constructed front. I ended up adding another line of topstitching on the hidden pocket zipper because there was about an 1/8″ of raw edges peeking into my front pocket. My accent fabric was surprisingly stretchy.

I used the interior pocket from my Fremont kit. It was leftover because I ended up using the greenish gray waxed canvas. I guessed at its placement and it worked out great!

Front and back become one, then on to boxed corners! The seams are finished with twill tape and once again Klum House shares some extremely helpful construction tips.

Once the rolltop is on, the last step is adding the straps!

The strap reinforcement leather is the perfect place to personalize with stamps.

Although there are other parts of my Slabtown that aren’t perfect, the way I messed up the straps is super disappointing. All of the leather is pre-punched for you, but if you get the felt expansion pack you’ll need to punch four holes in your straps. And I punched one of them 1/2″ off. GAH.

My solution was to add this silly little leather loop. I will eventually add a brass key ring so I can clip my keys to it. I guess it’s better than a random hole?

I’m so happy with these bags. Klum House provides you with the most complete and caring experience with their kits. I cannot recommend their patterns and products enough. It blows my mind that I made these. Here’s a 10% off coupon for any Klum House goods.

The Slabtown launch sale end June 30th, so go get it!

Planning

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My stash has gotten a bit out of control. Simply put, I’m buying a shit ton more fabric than I’m sewing. And that’s right, I have some coming in the mail too. I try to buy fabric with a pattern in mind, but sometimes I don’t, or I change my mind… You know how it goes. So I’m going back to a tried and true method – drawing flats and pairing them with swatches. The only thing that’s different is I’m taking them out of my sketchbook and hopefully posting them somewhere super visible in my space. Oh, and documenting them here. I think once a project is completed, the drawing and swatch will go back into a sketchbook.

During Me Made May, my goal is to make as many comfy WFH pants as possible. We’ll see how much gets done.

Outerwear

Bottoms

Jumpsuits + Sets

I have a lot more in my stash, but these are the current fabrics and patterns that excite me. How do you plan?

The Perfect Outfit: Bo & Joss

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Ok, I don’t have any photos with these two patterns worn together, but trust me – it’s the perfect combo.

Made this Seamwork Bo out of Washed linen in Cactus from Blackbird Fabrics.

And made the Seamwork Joss pants out of some natural linen that might be from Joann Fabrics.

I made size 6 for both patterns. I shortened the crotch depth by 1″ and the legs by 2″ on the Joss pants and raised the neckline a teeny bit on Bo. I could probably size down to a 2 for Bo, but I already had a 6 cut out. I’m planning to make the Joss pants again out some wide striped fabric. I’ve been wearing both a lot.

ACCESSORIES: Tree Fairfax half moon bag, Avery Williamson earrings, thrifted clogs, and Inari Tee.

A Bunch of LBs

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I’ve been in a making funk lately. Maybe it’s the weather, maybe it’s because work life isn’t killing my soul and I don’t need an outlet as much anymore. I don’t necessarily feel bad about it, it’s just weird to have idle hands.

I started writing this post well before COVID-19, but now I’m in even more of a personal making funk. I want to make things but my brain is really scattered and I’m finding the process not as satisfying.

I’m so grateful for my job, our house, food, the company of my husband and dog, and our current good health. I hope you have what you need during this weird and scary time and you are able to find some peace in making right now, or know it’s okay to take a break . Now on to the make details since I find looking at other’s makes a nice distraction.

My first LB Pullover was made out of this super textural woven cotton I found at Bolt. I can’t find it on their website, but check them out anyway – they have a lot of amazing fabrics and if we’re able, we should support small fabric stores right now.

The second version I made used this drool-worthy jersey knit from North of West, another great small PDX business. The sister duo occasionally hosts warehouse sales where you can scoop up yards of fun fabric. I purchased three fabric bundles which had well over 12 yards of fabric! If you’re interested in scoring some of their fabric, follow them on Instagram and hopefully in the near future we can all meet up at their warehouse.

The third and fourth versions also used North of West fabric. The cream squiggle print is a yummy terry. The other black version I made for my mom.

PATTERN – LB Pullover by Paper Theory

FABRICS – see above

SIZE – 8 for myself, 6 for my mom

MODS – none

The LB Pullover is a great basic pattern – perfect for beginners, or if you’re wanting a quick and satisfying sew. I’m pretty much living in these right now.

New Studio | part 1

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29 weeks ago we started updating the second floor. It began with electrical – not a single outlet (in the entire house) was grounded, there was only one very orange light fixture, the ceiling was… bad, and two wall mounted electric heaters needed to disappear. Then came duct work, which meant dismantling a weird built-in cabinet in a closet on the main floor, followed by more demo upstairs (groovy glass partition, framing, and ceiling tiles – goodbye!).

Drywall was installed directly over the OSB because it was easier than tearing it down and that kept it out of the dump. The contractors said they were going to use 1/4″ drywall, but slapped up 1/2″, which you can really feel in the stairwell. The room is super insulated now, I guess!

Once the drywall was up, it was immediately brighter, but it revealed just how off the walls were. It took quite a lot of mud to get the lines straight-ish and the corners’ angles to not look too wonky. I think at some point during the drywall install, we also had the floor tiles inspected for asbestos in preparation for the new flooring. Thankfully, no asbestos was involved in the making of this hideous room.

Once the drywall was in and the mudding was finally done, I made the mistake of painting, thinking it would be easier to do so before the flooring and new lighting fixtures were installed. DON’T EVER DO THIS unless you’re the person carefully installing shit. Contractors touch everything with dirty hands and swing their tools around. Also white paint chips all look the same in a room with weird brown flooring, so I accidentally painted the entire room a light yellow. I shudder to think about the amount of money I’ve dropped on paint alone.

But after what felt like 59 layers of paint, a whole lot of caulk, learning the importance of quarter round, and yep, you guessed it, more paint – it’s almost done!

Can you see all of the crap on the floor back there? I’m still painting! But the main focus of the picture is my BEAUTIFUL fabric stash. I used the comic / magazine board method and sort of grouped them by color. I love it so much, I almost don’t want to sew it.

The largest part of the room is now home to mega desk. No more cutting things out on the floor because this back won’t do it and this table is massive. It’s the FINNVARD & LINNMON desk combo from IKEA (measurements available on the IKEA website). The carpet and chair are vintage. The cutting mats are from Joann and I used a 60% off coupon for both.

I’m really loving how clean and bright it is up here now. So far I’ve hung up just one piece of art, a painting by my mother. I’m still trying to figure out the space and its different “zones”. I’m planning to hang pegboards, but I’m just not sure where they want to live yet.

Here’s my computer / non-sewing, but still creative work desk. My husband I used to share it in our old house. The fuzzy chair was rescued from my grandparents’ basement and has lived with me in four states now.

If I’m honest, this corner is probs gonna change. This bike, although it looks cool, is so loud and so hurts my body that I rarely use it. But the intention is there. I’m planning to reupholster two chrome art deco chairs for a lovely little seating area here.

I think my favorite thing about this space is the countertop. It’s concrete and beautiful. I scored that Schoolhouse Electric pendant light at Hippo Hardware in Portland and the fans are Hunter.

I’ll share my sewing set up once it’s presentable!

Ace & Jig Inspired Wilder

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Victorian nightgown or not, I went for it and made another Wilder Gown. This was actually the first one I wanted to make, but Stonemountain had just shy the amount of yardage I needed, so it was put on the back burner until more stock came in.

PATTERN – Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Company

FABRIC – Textured Yarn Dyed Cotton Square Stitch in Black from Stonemountain Fabric

SIZE – Medium

MODS – read on

ACCESSORIES – Sienna Maker Jacket, vintage roper boots.

For this version I shorted the skirt pattern piece by 2″, shortening the dress overall by 4″, which I think works much better on my 5’2″ frame. The bottom tier of the skirt is made up of three panels and I decided to make it into two so everything needed to be cut on cross-grain (it’s a LONG pattern piece).

I also, of course, added in-seam pockets. Twirl on!

Sienna’s Sienna Maker Jacket!

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Back in April, Heather from Closet Case Patterns asked if it would be okay if an upcoming fall pattern was named after me. She said it wasn’t quite ready to share, but that it was “worker jacket realness” and “totes my jam.” And then she sent the flats and I about fainted.

I have been dreaming of making a chore jacket for a good, long while and this one literally has my name on it!

PATTERN: Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Case Patterns

FABRIC: 10oz indigo denim from Stonemountain

SIZE: 8, view B

MODS: omitted the belt

ACCESSORIES: Raspberry Rucksack, Mitchell Jumpsuit, Baleen earrings, Clark’s shoes

I have a total of three versions planned and this denim one was made specially for the Stonemountain Sewists program. As a Stonemountain Sewist, I received a stipend to purchase fabric, sew up an indie pattern with said fabric, and answer a few questions on the Stonemountain blog. You can read all about why I chose this yummy denim here.

I have a natural bull denim set aside for view A and a beige canvas for another view B. The fabrics are, of course, from Stonemountain.

Up until this project, I had only used matching topstitching thread on denim projects. Silly me. Even though there are some wobbly bits, the contrasting thread looks so good against the indigo!

For the facing, I changed up the construction following Natalie Ebaugh’s Fancy Facing tutorial in her stories. It was a little awkward with the long facing pieces but I really love the clean edges. I will definitely use this method on other projects.

On my next two versions, I will shorten the sleeve a bit, probably 2-4″. I love the look of a rolled cuff, but there’s just a little too much fabric hanging out in that roll.

I’ve worn this jacket every day since finishing it. It’s such a good fall layering piece. I might add some antique brass snaps to the front closure, but I’m going to wear it for a while before I decide if they’re needed.

I love this pattern and I’m so honored to have been its muse!